Ciorba de stevie a mamei

Sunt unele mancaruri de care iti aduci aminte doar vag ca si gust, dar pe care le plasezi foarte clar intr-o amintire, intr-o imagine, intr-o simtire. Pentru mine e ciorba de stevie, de care nu mai stiam mare lucru decat ca e o fiertura cu o ciudata “buruiana”, dar despre care aveam o amintire foarte clara si draga mie: tataia mancand ciorba de stevie facuta de mamaia, la masa de langa magazie, sub corcodusul din curtea copilariei mele. Asa ca i-am cerut mamei sa ma astepte cu ciorba de stevie! Si asa s-a facut ca mama a adus stevie din curte de acolo, cu petale de corcodus -totusi nu cel de atunci, sa marcheze trecerea timpului…

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  • stevie -multa, cam 3 manunchiuri mari
  • 2 cepe potrivite, 1 morcov, 1 patrunjel
  • orez -1 paharel
  • zazavat de ciorba
  • 1 litru de bors
  • 1 manunchi de leustean

Se calesc ceapa cu morcovul si patrunjelul. Se toarna apa fierbinte (2-3 litri) si se lasa la fiert. Se adauga zarzavatul de ciorba si orezul. Dupa ce a fiert orezul pe 3 sferturi, se adauga stevia taiata fasii, nu prea marunt. Dupa ce s-au fiert cu toatele, se adauga borsul fierbinte, si la sfarsit leusteanul. Se poate drege si cu putin ou, daca nu, nu.

Si iata cum m-am intors eu langa tataia pe talpa magaziei!

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De Florii in Delta: bors pescaresc de casa, picanca si scrumbie la cuptor

Despre Delta spune RAR (si nu numai el!) ca este “cea mai spectaculoasa lume romaneasca, o insula, nici apa nici pamant”. In asteptarea momentului in care-o sa cunosc si eu acest taram, m-am aventurat, si in ce zi mai potrivita decat Floriile, sa incerc necunoscute mancaruri dunarene de peste -si am fost rasplatiti!

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Bors pescaresc de casa

“daca pestele a apucat sa ajunga pe langa casa imului, atunci simplitatea geniala a acestei retete primordiale trece intr-un fel de baroc al vegetaelor”

  • legume fel de fel: ceapa, morcov, rosii, telina, ardei gras, cartofi, usturoi (?! -da, usturoi in ciorba)
  • peste de tot felul, cat mai multe feluri cu atat mai bun, dupa regula o parte apa, doua parti peste (adica mult!!) -dar incercat de mine, iese foarte bine si cu un singur fel de peste, si nici ala nu de apa dulce (macrou)
  • verdeturi frunze: patrunjel, telina, marar, leustean

O data cu ceapa se pun la fiert toate legumele, taiate cat mai marunt, sa fiarba repede “si sa intre in inima ciorbei”. Dupa ce legumele s-au fiert, se adauga pestele taiat bucatele. Dupa 5 minute d ela primul clocot se adauga verdeturile, dar nu tocate, cum se obisnuieste, ci tulpini intregi. Dupa alte cinci minute, cand e pestele fiert, lucrarea e gata.

 

Picanca

“Picanca! Neasteptat si expresiv nume pentru o mancarica cazaceasca de peste, iute doar cat primeste imaginatia, dar nu si cat trupul cel firav […]”

  • 1 peste de 2-3 kg -crap, somon, stioca (eu am folosit mai multi pesti mai mici, macrou)
  • 1 caus de faina
  • 1 lingura pasta de ardei iute
  • 1 pahar pasta de rosii
  • 2 capatani de usturoi (sau mai putin, dupa gust)
  • 1 pahar de vin alb
  • 2-3 ardei iuti
  • 2 rosii zemoase si acrisoare

Pestele curatat de solzi se taie in bucati, se da prin faina si se rumeneste pe ambele parti in ulei, la foc potrivit. Se astepn feiute de rosii si ardeiu iute, peste care se aseaza bucatile de peste prajit. Din pasta de rosii, de ardei, vin, usturoi pisat si sare se face un sos care se toarna peste peste. Se mai sa cuptor, un sfert de ora sau cat e nevoie, si “se da la masa cu multa, foarte multa paine si o Chilie de vin alb”.

Cu vana multa mancarea asta, si buna tare si a doua, si-a treia, si-a pastra zi!

 

Scrumbie la cuptor

  • 4-5 scrumbii
  • 1 lamaie
  • sare, piper, 1 legatura de patrunjel
  • hartie de pergament

Scrumbiile se curata de mate, apoi se cresteaza des pe latie, upa obiceiul de la Dunare, ca sa se patrunda. Se freaca su sare si piper. Se inveleste ingrijit fiecare pescut in hartie pergament unsa cu ulei. Se pun in cuptor, pe tava, la foc mic, sau direct pe gratar, la jar potolit. Cand e gata -cam 20 de minute- se desface din hartie, cu grija, sa nu se piarda sosul. Se asaza in farfurie si se presara cu patrunjel verde tocat. Sosul fierbinte se amesteca cu zeama de la o lamaie si se toarna peste peste.

Felul asta de a prepara pestele la cuptor este, dupa parerea mea, mult, mult mai gustos decat orice alt fel de a face pestele la cuptor in pergament (sau aluminiu), umplut cu cine stie ce combinatie de mirodenii si lamaie intr-insul. Simplu si foarte bun, atat.

 

 

Sunday in Transylvania: apple soup and Brasov pancakes

For today, a wonderful culinary expedition: very close, geographically, from home, but on completely new tastes grounds. The two dishes from Brasov county, which I have never tasted before, are indeed a Sunday treat, surprising and friendly, but most of all very tasty. I recommend them whole-heartedly!

Apple “Zoup”

Radu Anton Roman notes that the apple soup was made, for the past thousand years, only between Brasov, Sibiu and Sighisoara, where the Saxons, Cistercians and Teuton knights lay foot. Nowadays, it is prepared throughout Transylvania.

  • 400 g pork or beef (preferably with a little more fat)
  • 500 g apples (3 medium sized apples)
  • vegetables: 1 carrot, 1 parsnip, 1 celery root
  • 50 ml cream
  • parsley

Cut up the meat and the vegetables in nice small cubes, and boil in 2 liters of water. Peel and de-seed the apples, and cut in thin slices. When the meat and the vegetables are boiled, take them out and put the slices of apples to boil for 10-15 minutes. When the apples are soft, add the meat and the vegetables. Mix the double cream with some boiling stew, and then add the mixture to the soup (you first mix the cream with the hot stre so that when you add it to the soup it will not separate). Add the finely chopped parsley.

“Eat and liberate yourselves of al linguistic complexes, as no one could tell me when theĀ  sour soup starts an the sweet soup ends, when it’s creamy and no longer a thick stew. But all know that it is good, when it is good, and that’s what is important” (RAR) -and indeed, this soup is very good, light and tasty in a way in which we’re not used to, slightly sour and sweet in the same time. And as easy is it to make it, i’s a shame not to try it at least once!

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Brasov pancakes

“This is a very special dish, tasty and solid. Among the few peasant dishes, a Romanian-Saxon mix, which made it to the menus of some (more or less) elegant taverns” (RAR). I don’t know in which elegant taverns you could find this dish, I haven’t seen it, but surely it would instantly become a start among polentas, that’s how pretty this pancakes are! They are certainly worth the time and the patience it takes to make them.

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Pancake pastry:

  • 300 g flour; 3 eggs; 500 ml milk

Filling:

  • 1 onion
  • 500 g mushrooms
  • 500 g chicken breast (or chicken liver, port filet, etc)
  • 1 glass of milk
  • 1 tb flour
  • 2 eggs
  • some tarragon leaves
  • 1 bundle of dill
  • some dried thyme

Crust:

  • 3 eggs
  • 200 g breadcrumbs

Sauce:

  • 2 cups tomatoe juice
  • 1 glass of wine (or asI replaced it with balsamic vinegar and lemon juice)
  • 1 tbsp sugar, pepper, 2 bay leaves

Filling: prep the mushrooms and the meat, cut in small pieces, and chop the onion. Fry the onion and the meat. When golden, add the mushrooms and continue frying until the juices are reduced. Mix the flour in cold milk, and add in the battered eggs. Finely chop the tarragon. When the onion, meat and onions are cooked, ad the milk and egg sauce, the tarragon and the thyme. Season with salt and pepper. Mix thoroughly and leave on heat for several more minutes until the mixture thickens.

Pancakes: the Brasov pancakes are thicker and larger than normal pancakes (crepes), such that they are big enough for the filling.

Rolling: fill ad roll the pancakes with the meat and mushroom filling, and tuck in the ends of the pancakes (making them look like large spring rolls)

Crust -coating and frying: Batter the eggs. Heat enough oil in a large pan. Dip the pancake rolls in the battered eggs, then roll them in breadcrumbles, and fry on high heat until they get a nice brown crust (this is done very quickly). Place them on kitchen towels to absorb the excess oil.

Sauce: make a sauce of all the ingredients :). Put the sauce near the Brasov pancakes only at serving, so they don’t get soggy.

 

Absolutely delicious!!

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